Maybe it's just me, but I start to trip out when I think about all of the perfect waves going by unridden, all day long, everyday, everywhere. These beautiful manifestations of universal energy, conceived in a storm halfway across the globe, created by rugged storm winds that howl out across the ocean surface, until they travel thousands of miles and begin to organize into rhythmic pulses of energy, that travel until they reach some sandbar, reef shelf, or cobblestone point and explode their collected energy back to the universe in the form of one glorious, beautiful, perfect wave. I think waves possess magical energy, harnessing the culmination of this universal rhythm into a physical form that allows us the opportunity to tap into this energy and be vitalized from it's power. Waves are a beautiful expression of the natural vibrations of the universe, and with this perspective I believe they should be appreciated, as I am extremely humbled, thankful, and gracious for the incredible blessings they provide, so I choose to celebrate them by joining them for their final ride.
So when I start to think about all of the different spots that are going off at any certain time and knowing how many perfect waves are firing away, I feel like I should be there to appreciate all of their beauty, but I can't be everywhere at once. So even on days where I have a super fun session getting amazing waves, I still wonder about the waves at other spots, and wish I could be there to praise them as well. Like on an island, when the swell is pulsing and the winds are light, there are so many good spots to surf that just deciding where to paddle out is tough. The choice to go out at one spot keeps me from scoring waves at the other spots, so I have to choose wisely in order to put my mind at ease. Then the swell carries on its way past the islands over to the mainland, and even more spots and more different perfect waves are rifling away, and I start to get a little overwhelmed. That is when it reaches the point of going from so many perfect waves, into too many perfect waves. And I haven't even traveled everywhere I want to go yet, I can't even image what will happen when I add more breaks to my list. I think I might lose it...
Liquid manifestation of universal energy :)
Photo by Steve Knox
