Aloha :)

Perfect day for a trip :)

Hawai'i Swell

Checking out the surf forecast for Hawai'i it looks like one of the biggest swells in recent years is due to arrive the same day I do.   I definitely have not been getting in much big wave practice here in California but I have to say I am really looking forward to getting back into some solid surf, so it might as well be straight off the plane right into the mix. Psyching!

The Greenery Raw Food Cafe

I have been a fan of The Greenery Raw Food Cafe ever since they opened their doors here in Encinitas.  Head Chef Chris and his lovely wife Melissa do an amazing job of providing delicious food for individuals on a raw vegan diet, those interested in healthy alternative options, and anyone looking for something new and exciting to incorporate into their diet.  The cafe provides a beautiful atmosphere and serene environment in which to savor the variety of delicious selections on offer, from appetizers and salads, to drinks and entrees, and snacks and desserts.  I love that they have been incorporating nightly specials into their menu as well, with so many incredible recipes it is hard to choose favorites!  Some of my favorites include the house salad, the pineapple/coconut/ginger drink, pad thai, vegetable curry, pizza, lasagna, tacos, carob/maca pie, and all of the ice cream flavors!  So much amazing food!  I highly recommend everyone stopping by the cafe to sample the delicious selections available, located right off Coast Highway 101 in coastal Encinitas, North County San Diego.  Enjoy!

Raw tacos, absolutely amazing!

Del Mar Housing Projects

I have been working this week out at the Del Mar Housing Projects factory building some new mounts for the different camera housings I have built in the past.  Creating the new mounts will allow me to capture some new angles and fresh perspectives of the surfing experience when used with the different cameras in my arsenal.  It has been a really busy week as I have been running all over town to gather all of the items I will want for my trip to Hawai'i that is coming up quickly, and at night I have been out at the factory.  A lot of work goes into the camera housing and mount production including sanding, prepping, laying up carbon fiber with epoxy resins, measuring, setting angles, more sanding, heckling, trimming, more lay-ups, dremmelling, drilling, and even more sanding.  Good thing there is an awesome crew of friends out there to keep me smiling and inspired, while they put in some long hours creating the best underwater camera housings in the world.  Check them out!

Erik Hjermstad, the mad scientist at the controls

Pineapple guavas, pomegranates, persimmons, and avocados, Dinner of Champions!

Sanding workstation

The workshop, where the magic happens

Happy Thanksgiving

Thanks and praises to the universe for blessing I and I on this and every gloriously beautiful day, and allowing I and I to enjoy all of the beauty and wonder that is this life!  I am so thankful for my wonderful family, amazing friends, and my incredibly blessed life!

Vegan Thanksgiving :)

Happiness

I am so thankful for the incredible week of surf I have been blessed to enjoy lately, sharing perfect barrels with a couple of great friends really puts things into perspective.  The police found my car on Sunday night, but unfortunately it was cleaned out of every single thing that I had in there, so I am still missing a bunch of personal items.  But I have realized that even though I lost some important material possessions that they are just that, and are not nearly as important as the feelings and energies I have experienced the last few days surfing perfect waves with two close friends.  Living a conscious life connected to the power of nature and in tune with its energy is a satisfaction no material possession can bring.  Sure my material possessions are nice, but the ones I miss most are not just things but are tools, like my surfboard or my bamboo fins or my wetsuits, items that allow me to experience a more fulfilled life and to tap into nature's harmony.  I have also realized that the more I have shared with and given to others, the more they are able to return that favor and help me out when I need it.  Friends have been willing to share surf gear with me to keep me in the water, some of which I had given to them this past year, really helping me to see how everything comes around full circle.  So remember to be happy and thankful for all that you do have, your friends, family, health, and experiences and don't worry about things you wish you had or think you need, everything is there when you need it when you focus on living a life filled with joy.  :)

Car Stolen

I am not a fan of thieves, and I think that stealing is a very disrespectful and selfish act.  I was unfortunately a victim of theft today when my car was stolen around 11 am in front of my friend's house, with almost all of my surfing gear inside, along with all sorts of different personal items.  But the most devastating would have to be our surfboards that we rode yesterday, my magic 6'1" round pin Channel Islands shaped by Al Merrick and my friend Homer's 6'0" squash tail M10 shaped by Geoff Rashe.  If anyone comes across these boards please do whatever you can to get them returned to their rightful owners.  Here are a couple of pics from the session we had yesterday shot by Guerin Myall so everyone can see the specifics of my board and recognize it if they come in contact with it.  Thank you so much for helping me locate my magic board!

6'1" round pin Channel Islands w/ black Aercor glass-on fins w/ my name and Al's signature written above the stringer on the deck, team logos on the rail, OAM traction pad, and some red spray paint