Winter Solstice

Winter Solstice is here, the shortest day of the year, and now the Sun begins its journey north, increasing the amount of light in every day for the next six months, filling us up with unlimited energy and inspiration.  Choose your goals, set your intention, and tap into the omnipresent energy of the universe to manifest your dreams!  Happy Solstice everyone!

Hawai'i Banana Harvest

Back to the property to help clean up the zone, and collect some thick bunches of bananas.  Hawai'i has the best bananas, the sweet apple banana variety and not the chalky ones everyone is used to on the mainland.  They are a little smaller in size but have such a great flavor, perfect for smoothies and dehydrated in slices, and especially just solo right out of the peel.  When the bunches ripen the bananas are literally falling off the stalk ready to be enjoyed, so stoked!

Banana tree going big

Banana harvest with plumeria flower guardian

Guacamole Tacos

I went to my friend's family's farm and got to search around the property for some ripe organic fruit to bring home with me, and was so psyched to see the avocado varieties all going off!  The avocado graveyard had shells of so many avos that had fed the chickens and the earth, and a couple freshly fallen ones ready to feed me!  

One of my favorite recipes, and one that is super simple when I'm on trips where fresh produce is available, is a raw guacamole taco meal.  I usually mix up the fresh ripe avocados with diced garlic, tomatoes, and a little onion, sprinkle on some cayenne pepper, sea salt, and black pepper, and hero guac is ready in minutes.  There are a variety of raw options for shells, like collard greens, kale, and romaine, but I really enjoy the crunch of a green cabbage leaf.  Simply cut the leaf at the base, peel it off nice and easy, and scoop in a solid serving of guacamole for your instant guac tacos.  Enjoy!

Avocado harvest

Guacamole tacos in green cabbage shells :)

The Best Life Ever

Right after one of the most amazing days of my life, I doubled up straight into another incredibly phenomenal day, so thankful for the abundance of love energy!  While basking in the glow from the waves a day ago, the next day I went to meet up with David "Avocado" Wolfe, considered by many to be the foremost authority on raw food nutrition and organic superfoods, at his NoniLand Agricultural Research Center. I was absolutely blown away at the beauty of the landscape and variety of fruit trees covering the grounds, and in awe at the bee sanctuary they have created, showcasing a thriving ecosystem in perfect harmony with nature.  I met some amazing individuals there from the NoniLand team and was treated to a tour of the grounds, with a day full of the best food ever!  Along with NoniLand, Wolfe is the author of several best-selling books on superfoods, gives public seminars on nutrition and personal success, and has established numerous other programs including starting Sunfood Nutrition, the best source for organic superfoods, as Co-Founder of TheBestDayEver.com online health magazine, and as President of the non-profit Fruit Tree Planting Foundation.  Truly an enigmatic personality, his passion to inspire everyone to "Have The Best Day Ever" is visible in his actions, his words, and the environment he has created.  His comment during the day regarding the success with which our group was an embodiment of "Living The Best Life Ever" couldn't have been more on point.

Avocado and his angel trumpet crown

Welcome to NoniLand :)

Ra "The Beekeeper" Weisman offering me some fresh coconut water

Mixing up the elixir and straining the seeds, the most amazingly vital juice blend ever!  Fresh noni, fermented noni juice, lilikoi (passion fruit), coconut water, honey, and nutmeg, so good!

Kohta gave me a sample of his raw mocha caramel ice cream, the best I have ever had!

After a trip to harvest some lilikoi (passion fruit) vine root, we came back to clean and remove the bark to add into the tincture, containing Kalalau kava, noni leaf, tumeric, and the lilikoi root.

View from the NoniLand deck overlooking the grounds with the lake and ocean in the distance

Noni, the fruit that gave this place its name

Durian fruits resting on top of one of the bee hives

Baby cacao (raw chocolate) pods

Aloe field

Tulsi, Holy Basil leading up to the house

Kava kava

Chacruna berries

Mangosteen in the nursery

Durian tree, produces my favorite food ever, The King of Fruits!

Starfruit tree

Coconut plam

Sunrise papaya tree

Avocado tree

Lilikoi (passion fruit)

Beauty Is Everywhere

The Best Surf Ever

I have had some absolutely amazing surf sessions in my life, but I am pretty sure I just witnessed the most incredibly perfect waves I have ever seen with my own eyes!  So thankful to have been here today to enjoy the magnificent display nature provided.  I am utterly amazed and in complete awe at the beauty of nature, seeing my dreams manifested into liquid reality, so ridiculously glorious it cannot be put into words.  So happy to have caught a couple myself and to see my friends catch some amazing waves as well, pure bliss! :)

Aloha :)

Perfect day for a trip :)

Hawai'i Swell

Checking out the surf forecast for Hawai'i it looks like one of the biggest swells in recent years is due to arrive the same day I do.   I definitely have not been getting in much big wave practice here in California but I have to say I am really looking forward to getting back into some solid surf, so it might as well be straight off the plane right into the mix. Psyching!

The Greenery Raw Food Cafe

I have been a fan of The Greenery Raw Food Cafe ever since they opened their doors here in Encinitas.  Head Chef Chris and his lovely wife Melissa do an amazing job of providing delicious food for individuals on a raw vegan diet, those interested in healthy alternative options, and anyone looking for something new and exciting to incorporate into their diet.  The cafe provides a beautiful atmosphere and serene environment in which to savor the variety of delicious selections on offer, from appetizers and salads, to drinks and entrees, and snacks and desserts.  I love that they have been incorporating nightly specials into their menu as well, with so many incredible recipes it is hard to choose favorites!  Some of my favorites include the house salad, the pineapple/coconut/ginger drink, pad thai, vegetable curry, pizza, lasagna, tacos, carob/maca pie, and all of the ice cream flavors!  So much amazing food!  I highly recommend everyone stopping by the cafe to sample the delicious selections available, located right off Coast Highway 101 in coastal Encinitas, North County San Diego.  Enjoy!

Raw tacos, absolutely amazing!

Del Mar Housing Projects

I have been working this week out at the Del Mar Housing Projects factory building some new mounts for the different camera housings I have built in the past.  Creating the new mounts will allow me to capture some new angles and fresh perspectives of the surfing experience when used with the different cameras in my arsenal.  It has been a really busy week as I have been running all over town to gather all of the items I will want for my trip to Hawai'i that is coming up quickly, and at night I have been out at the factory.  A lot of work goes into the camera housing and mount production including sanding, prepping, laying up carbon fiber with epoxy resins, measuring, setting angles, more sanding, heckling, trimming, more lay-ups, dremmelling, drilling, and even more sanding.  Good thing there is an awesome crew of friends out there to keep me smiling and inspired, while they put in some long hours creating the best underwater camera housings in the world.  Check them out!

Erik Hjermstad, the mad scientist at the controls

Pineapple guavas, pomegranates, persimmons, and avocados, Dinner of Champions!

Sanding workstation

The workshop, where the magic happens

Happy Thanksgiving

Thanks and praises to the universe for blessing I and I on this and every gloriously beautiful day, and allowing I and I to enjoy all of the beauty and wonder that is this life!  I am so thankful for my wonderful family, amazing friends, and my incredibly blessed life!

Vegan Thanksgiving :)

Happiness

I am so thankful for the incredible week of surf I have been blessed to enjoy lately, sharing perfect barrels with a couple of great friends really puts things into perspective.  The police found my car on Sunday night, but unfortunately it was cleaned out of every single thing that I had in there, so I am still missing a bunch of personal items.  But I have realized that even though I lost some important material possessions that they are just that, and are not nearly as important as the feelings and energies I have experienced the last few days surfing perfect waves with two close friends.  Living a conscious life connected to the power of nature and in tune with its energy is a satisfaction no material possession can bring.  Sure my material possessions are nice, but the ones I miss most are not just things but are tools, like my surfboard or my bamboo fins or my wetsuits, items that allow me to experience a more fulfilled life and to tap into nature's harmony.  I have also realized that the more I have shared with and given to others, the more they are able to return that favor and help me out when I need it.  Friends have been willing to share surf gear with me to keep me in the water, some of which I had given to them this past year, really helping me to see how everything comes around full circle.  So remember to be happy and thankful for all that you do have, your friends, family, health, and experiences and don't worry about things you wish you had or think you need, everything is there when you need it when you focus on living a life filled with joy.  :)

Car Stolen

I am not a fan of thieves, and I think that stealing is a very disrespectful and selfish act.  I was unfortunately a victim of theft today when my car was stolen around 11 am in front of my friend's house, with almost all of my surfing gear inside, along with all sorts of different personal items.  But the most devastating would have to be our surfboards that we rode yesterday, my magic 6'1" round pin Channel Islands shaped by Al Merrick and my friend Homer's 6'0" squash tail M10 shaped by Geoff Rashe.  If anyone comes across these boards please do whatever you can to get them returned to their rightful owners.  Here are a couple of pics from the session we had yesterday shot by Guerin Myall so everyone can see the specifics of my board and recognize it if they come in contact with it.  Thank you so much for helping me locate my magic board!

6'1" round pin Channel Islands w/ black Aercor glass-on fins w/ my name and Al's signature written above the stringer on the deck, team logos on the rail, OAM traction pad, and some red spray paint

Homer's Art Studio

One of my favorite places to be in the autumn months is to spend some time in Santa Cruz, scoring the stellar weather and clean early season swells that wrap into the points and coves of this incredible town.  This year I spent over a month up north hanging out and surfing with my good friend Homer Henard.  We became friends back in our junior days surfing together on the US Team in the Quiksilver World Grommet Titles at Kuta Beach on the island of Bali in Indonesia.  Ever since I have stayed with Homer while I visit Santa Cruz, stoked to have his knowledge of the area keeping us at all of the best spots on each and every day.  Surfing may be his main focus, but is by no means his only interest, as his art has been receiving a good amount of his attention lately.  The paintings he has been working on lately are captivating, showcasing his passions for both surf and beautiful women.   Check out a few of his amazing pieces below.

Sunrise Slab

Elephant Trunks

Spider Woman

Dream Day

Homer and some of his artwork

Channel Islands Surfboard Factory

On my way back up north this week I stopped in at my surfboard sponsor's factory to order up some new blades.  Al Merrick has been shaping me the best boards in the world for the last decade and I am so thankful to be blessed with the opportunity to have his shapes under my feet.  Everyone at Channel Islands is awesome, and I love taking the time to stop in and say hi anytime I can.  On this trip I brought in my magic 5'11" round tail to get it scanned so a few copies can get shaped, hoping to keep this magic model in my quiver for a while.  Travis Lee is not only a good friend and an awesome human being, who I am stoked to catch up on great stories with, but he has also been helping me out since day one, providing me insight on new models and relaying feedback from other team riders on which boards are working best in different conditions.  It is so crucial to have the perspectives of some of the best surfers in the world on how different models are working for them in order to help me decide what shapes would be best suited for my surfing.  I am so thankful to be a part of such an incredible team and to have the best surfboards in the world in my quiver!  Thank you so much to everyone at Channel Islands Surfboards!

Al The Master taking a look at my magic 5'11" round tail

Anyone need a new surfboard?  Great gift for the holidays!

Solid quiver ;)

Some team boards in the lobby

Slater's championship quiver.  How many WCT's have been won on your shaper's boards?

Even got a fun surf in after I left the factory, stoked!

Jim Beam Surf Tag Champs

The Jim Beam Surf Tag Championships took place on the south side of Huntington Beach Pier November 13 and 14 under sunny skies with fun chest to shoulder high waves.  The team format is a really fun dynamic, and as there are no throw away waves all 3 rides count for each surfer, making focus and confidence valuable attributes to earn solid scores for your team.  The Blue Collar Team surfed strong all event and we made it to the Semi Finals, getting 3rd and just missing out on advancing to the Final, finishing in 5th Place Overall.  Team Reef continued the impressive performances they displayed in the qualifier here in the Championships, and took the Overall Title.  You can check coverage of the event on Surfline.  Congratulations Team Reef!

Blue Collar getting ready (L to R: Chuy Reyna, Jeremy Heit, Willie Smith, and myself)

Surfline threw me some props :)

Blue Collar Crew in the Semi Final (L to R: Chuy, Willie, Jason Bennet, and myself)

Congratulations to Team Reef!